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Showing posts with label Furniture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Furniture. Show all posts

Saturday, 8 June 2013

How to Make Bookshelves

Finished Bookcase

Before You Begin

As far as shelving goes, it doesn't get simpler than this. Alter the dimensions to suit your space. As for any project that requires identical sizes, have pieces cut by a cabinet-maker or sheet material supplier. Since there are only two different shelf spacings, use spacer blocks to save on repetitious measuring.
Usually the highest shelves are at the base for sturdiness but, because the big books are sometimes the best looking and most-often used, these shelves alternate between 9 1/2-in. and 13-in. and are fixed for strength. The tallest unit is 85-in., the middle is 61-in., then 37-in.. To keep the cost down, the units are made from 3/4-in., but if you use a thicker wood, they could be slightly wider. Make it easy on the eye by designing the shelves of each unit to line up. Finish them in a bright, reflective color to lighten the area.
Bookcase BeforeSue Ferris[+]
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Step 1: Attach the Top to One Side

Round over all edges using a router with a 1/8-in. roundover bit. Screw and glue the top piece to one side with #8 x 2-in. screws, ensuring the top is flush with the top edge of the end. Use the 9 1/2-in. spacer to attach the first shelf.
Step 1: Attach the Top to One SideSue Ferris[+]

Step 2: Position the Shelves

Screw and glue the next shelf in position, using the 13-in. spacer between the two, ensuring the shelf is firmly set against the spacer block. Repeat using the 9 1/2-in. spacer for the bottom shelf.
Step 2: Position the ShelvesSue Ferris[+]

Step 3: Attach the Remaining Side

Rotate the cabinet on the workbench and attach the other side, gluing and screwing shelves into place. For accurate positioning use the corresponding spacer blocks, beginning from the top shelf and working down.
Step 3: Attach the Remaining SideSue Ferris[+]

Step 4: Fix the Base

Screw and glue the base into position. Set it back 3/16-in. from the front edge of the bottom shelf. Glue an offcut of timber behind the base to stop it flexing in the middle.
Step 4: Fix the BaseSue Ferris[+]
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Step 5: Attach the Back

Flip the cabinet over onto the face and attach the 1/2-in. back with #6 x 1 1/4-in.. Start by working down one side then across the top to ensure the cabinet remains square.
Step 5: Attach the BackSue Ferris[+]
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Add Step 6: Paint

Paint inside, face and sides with an interior primer or wall undercoat. If you don't intend to paint the backs, at least paint along the top of the backing board where it's visible from the stairs. Use a spray paint, brush or roller two coats of paint on the sides. If the units will be full (rather than housing ornaments) one coat inside is enough.
Finished BookcaseSue Ferris[+]

How to Build an Outdoor Storage Bench

Finished Bench

Before You Begin

The bench is constructed of 1 x 4 pine. If willing to pay more, choose a more durable wood such as cedar, redwood or teak. The upholstered seat and panels are from a single sheet of 3/8-in. BC-grade plywood.
Storage Bench DiagramStephen Pollitt[+]

Step 1: Choose Upholstery Fabric

Outdoor fabrics are woven textiles made from synthetic fibers and cotton blends. The breathable fabric is made water repellent by chemical treatment during manufacturing and also resists stains and impedes mildew. Craft and fabric stores may carry outdoor fabric, but for the best selection and advice go to an upholstery store. The standard width is 55-in., and a good waterproofed fabric can cost up to $100 a meter. You'll need a piece at least 6 1/2-ft., with an equal amount of batting. We used 1 1/2-in.-thick, medium-density foam. Some suppliers will cut the foam to size.
Avoid using vinyl, a plastic made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), as it tends to be UV sensitive and degrades when exposed to sunlight. Some vinyl can crack in cold weather or degrade in direct sunlight. Solid colors or subtle patterns are easiest to work with. Stripes are the most difficult.

Step 2: Shape the Rails

Mark a curve on the upper rails using the arc jig (see diagram below). Cut the curve with a jigsaw leaving about 1/32-in. of material to clean up with a sander. Don't cut the rails to final length until the curve is sanded.
Rail Curve DiagramStephen Pollitt[+]

Step 3: Assemble the Frames

Clamp each joint to a flat surface and add the stainless steel pocket screws. Be careful not to drive screws too deep. You can also use a biscuit joint. When assembling the side frames, position stiles 3/4-in. inside the outer ends of the rails.

Step 4: Box Assembly

Glue and screw bottom cleats to the front and back frames. Pre-drill and fasten the frames together with #8 x 2-in. screws. Ensure the end frames are flush with the face of the front and back frames.

Step 5: Get It Square

Take diagonal measurements to make sure the box is square and make any adjustments before gluing and screwing the slats in place. The slats form the base and provide extra rigidity.

Step 6: Chamfer the Legs

Glue and clamp two pieces together to form the legs then sand. Chamfer the three edges for decorative effect. Set the router to a depth of 1/4-in., stopping the cut 2 1/2-in. from each end.

Step 7: Attach the Legs

Glue and screw the legs to the corners of the box from the inside. Pre-drill 5/64-in. clearance holes so the screws draw the legs tight against the frames. Use #8 x 1 1/4-in. screws, ensuring tops of the legs are flush with the top of the frame.

Step 8: Laminate the Seat

Glue two layers of 3/8-in. plywood together to make the seat. Drive #8 x 1 1/4-in screws every 6-in. to clamp both layers together, and remove screws after glue sets. If plywood is slightly bowed, position them opposite each other.

Step 9: Hinge the Seat

Fasten hinges to the box first. Then lay the seat on the floor and position each hinge as shown. Drill eight 1/2-in. holes through the seat so air escapes from under the upholstery. Round corners of the seat with a jigsaw, then upholster.

Step 10: Finish the Bench

With the bench stained and panels covered, screw the panels inside the frames. To keep the legs off the wet ground, screw on 3/4-in. plastic feet. To minimize rain seeping in, run weather stripping around the upper edge.
A lid support can be added to hold the seat open. To keep mice out, staple 1/4-in. galvanized wire to the underside of the slats.
Maintaining the finish is easy since the panels and seat can be removed to add a fresh coat of stain or paint.

Step 11: Upholster the Seat

Cut the fabric, batting and foam to size. Take the seat outside and coat one side with spray adhesive. Position the seat carefully on the foam as it bonds immediately.
  • Start by tacking the fabric at the middle of all four sides. With a pattern, flip the seat over to be sure it's aligned.
  • Work out from the middle of one side, then go to the other and stretch the fabric gently as you work outward.
  • Occasionally, flip the seat over to check for ripples. If there are, pry out a few staples and fix the fabric.
  • Stop stapling about 3-in. from each corner and do the corners only after all four sides are done.
  • Cut out V sections of fabric at the corners to avoid a thick lump of excess fabric.
  • If using stiff vinyl, heat corners with a hair dryer to soften it.














How to Make an Upholstered Screen

Finished Dividing Screen

Before You Begin

A screen can be any size, although for this project we've used three 3/4-in.-thick MDF panels cut to 18-in. x 72-in. Have them cut professionally by the supplier to make the job even easier. The back of each panel is painted and the fronts covered with polyester padding (cut 5-ft. x 6 1/2-ft. into three pieces) and 5-ft. x 6 1/2-ft.-wide fabric. Use 6 1/2-ft. of 5-ft.-wide fabric, heavy cotton drill or denim.

Step 1: Prepare the Panels

Paint the back of each panel with sealer/primer, followed by two coats of acrylic paint. Using a pale color helps reflects light and helps to brighten the space behind the screen.
Step 1: Prepare the PanelsRobert Reichenfeld[+]

Step 2: Attach the Batting

Cut strips of batting slightly larger than the panels. Lay it on the unpainted face of each panel and fix with a staple gun. Trim away any excess. Tap staples flush with a hammer to reduce wear on the fabric.
Step 2: Attach the Batting Robert Reichenfeld[+]

Step 3: Attach the Fabric

Fold the edge of the fabric under by 1/2-in., lay it over the batting and staple to the narrow edge of the panel. Tension the fabric across the panel and staple the fabric to the other three edges. Fold the edges under.
Step 3: Attach the FabricRobert Reichenfeld[+]

Step 4: Tidy the Edges

Fix a strip of upholstery tape to the narrow edges of the panel to cover the fabric edges and staples. Use decorative upholstery nails at 2-in. intervals.
Step 4: Tidy the EdgesRobert Reichenfeld[+]

Step 5: Join the Panels

Lay two panels face down and align the bottom edges. Attach a pair of hinges 16-in. from the top and bottom of the panels. Turn the joined panels painted side up, butt the remaining panel against them and attach the remaining hinges.
Step 5: Join the PanelsRobert Reichenfeld[+]
Finished Dividing ScreenRobert Reichenfeld

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How to Build a Bench with Cushion

Finished Bench with Two Cushions

Step 1: Set the Backrest Angle

On the edge of the sides, mark 1 9/16-in. from one end and mark a line up to the top corner, making a 15° angle, and cut with a circular saw. Position the ends between the sides with the front flush and the rear end aligned with the 1 9/16-in. (see diagram below), drilling 1/16-in. pilot holes and countersinking to secure with adhesive and #6 x 2-in. screws.

Step 2: Attach the Back Rails

Position the back rails against the rear of the feet. Transfer the angle to the base of the rails and plane so the rail base sits flat. Drill 1/16-in. pilot holes through the rails into the sides, securing with adhesive and screws.

Step 3: Secure the Slats

Position the feet spaced 18 3/4-in. apart. Position a slat flush to the front of the feet, securing with adhesive and screws. Position the remaining slats, drilling 1/16-in. countersunk pilot holes and securing to the feet and back rails.

Step 4: Finish the Frame

Fill all screw holes with wood filler and leave to dry overnight. Use a random orbital sander to slightly round the edges, smooth the bench with 180-grit sandpaper, then apply two coats of gloss acrylic paint.
Bench Diagram[+]

Step 5: Start Your Cushions

Cut double layers of mattress foam or high-density foam to 6-in. x 24-in. x 48-in. for the seat and 4-in. x 19-in. x 48-in. for the back. Buy 4 1/2-yards of 60-in.-wide fabric and follow the cutting list as a pattern. To make the piping, join strips of remnants for the two 144-in. long seat and 134-in. back pieces. Cut two lengths of 3/8-in. rope for the seat and two for the back.

Step 6: Make the Piping for the Cushions

Position the rope on the wrong side, folding the fabric over so the right side faces up, then machine stitch close to the rope for a tight fit.

Step 7: Assemble the Top Cover

Join the side and end pieces to the top with a 9/16-in. seam allowance, piping between, then machine stitch.

Step 8: Finish the Covers

Machine stitch the base to the remaining piping. Turn the cover right side out and place it over the foam. Position the base piping and tack along the sides and ends, folding in the seam allowance. Use a slip stitch to hand sew the cover and enclose the foam.

Step 9: Attach the Buttons

Mark the button positions on both sides. Use heavy thread to attach buttons through the foam using a straight upholstery needle at least 10-in. long.
Finished BenchStockFood/Gallo Images[+]
Finished Bench with Two Cushions